Legler's

Legler's is the kind of place that makes you rethink what a neighbourhood restaurant can be. Chef Max Legler works with regional and seasonal products as his foundation, then pulls from broader influences to land somewhere distinctly his own — call it modern French with an open passport. The menu shifts regularly, which keeps things genuinely interesting rather than just on-trend. The cooking has real range. Homemade spaghetti comes with organic mussels, wild garlic, julienned vegetables and lemon breadcrumbs — bright and considered. Braised lamb shoulder arrives with wild cauliflower, saffron mashed potatoes and a parsley-salt-lemon pesto that does a lot of quiet work on the plate. Grilled pointed cabbage with Jerusalem artichoke purée, beech mushroom escabeche and lime chili mayo shows the kitchen is just as confident without meat at the centre. The approach here is one of curiosity — each visit is shaped by what's in season and where Legler's head is at that week. It's far from formulaic, and that's exactly the point.